Thanks, I will.
Model is M500. However there is M2500 model with different front panel - M500 has rotary temperature selector while M2500 has push button. I saw both versions at Bosch internet site in exploded view section.
Pressostat, if defective, would be open in water valve coil circuit?
I checked both pressostats and their ressistance is 0 ohm - they are not opened. Both conducts.
Bitte die Beitragsschablone sorgfältig ausfüllen.!!
Hersteller: BOSCH
Modell: M500
Fehler:
Gretings to all.
I am repairing an old Bosch dishwashr model M500, product number 0730102611. Does anyone have electrical diagram (schematic or schaltplan) for this model or model E700 which is similar to M500 in any format (electronic or paper)? Electric diagram would be of great help to me in repairing my dishwasher. I apologize for language as I don't speak very well German language.
Problem is that whan any program is started, dishwasher don't open water valve for filling machine, but open valve for salt. It has two electric water valves. If I exchange wires to coils, then water is filled and dishwasher runs perfectly, but valve for salt is not opening. I suggest that if safety or level pressostat is trigerred, then any of valves should not be opened. Also, dishwasher would not run perfectly with changed wires at valves. That also shows that both valves works correctly when are porperly powered. This leaves me with conclusion that there is break in wire which connects one of valves, probably in door harness, but I would like to check all with wiring diagram......I checked wire harness foe breaks in door and all wires are good.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thank you all in advance,
Ivo
I forgot to mention, no matther how much I turn Ug2, I don't see flyback lines, just whole screen gets brighter. And I measured again and M2 is 500-600 Vpp instead 1200Vpp. 
OK, I checked voltage at DST Pin 8/10 and it is about 147 V.
I asked to upload picture to show those horizontal lines, but they are gone now as I changed TDA 4950. Now I have screen, just like Lacky in post from 02.02.2004, topic: 'Telefunken Chassis 618 mit Regenbogenbild' (8th answer). Also, U4 gives 13V.
I checked BG01 at pins 1 and 3 and oscilograms are as shown at picture.
Any suggestions?
Thanks for the picture, but mine are coloured lines of one color and they are not static or by any angle like on your picture. And they randomly comes in and goes out at different position at screen rather fast.
Can I upload drawing in post?
I will check U2 and let you know. CL48 is new (I posted in my previous post CL46 instead CL48 as my schematic is in poor quality). Value is 11nF (as shown in brackets in schematic).
What could cause showing a lot of thin paralel lines jumping at screen if focus, hi voltage cable-to-screen and white box at picture tube board are OK? I exchanged all of them.
I am still looking for better qualitiy scanned schematic 
Thanks,
Ivo.
Well, I just wanted to say what I measured with osciloscope and found out today:
Points H1, M1, M4, N2, N7, M2 are almost as drawing. At M2 i measured about 800Vpp instead 1200 Vpp.
Point N4 looks like but not exactly as drawing.
Point K7, N1 and K2 not at all as drawing.
Still, if someone has a bit clearer schematic than mine with oscilograms or even more oscilograms, please sent it at my e-mail: andreis10020@yahoo.com
Any suggestions? Bad CL22 or CL54 can do this?
Regards,
Ivo
Hello again. Here is what I found out: I put osciloscope at point H1 and oscilogram was good. Then I tried M1 (base of TL31) and it was similar to small drawing too.
Now, would anyone be so kind to send me schematic as mine is not so good scanned and little oscilograms are not very visible. And on my schematic I have very few oscilograms at test points, so anything better than mine is welcome. My address is: andreis10020@yahoo.com
Is it safe enough to measure test points with several hundred volts with osciloscope probe set at x10 and will probe disturb work of TV? (sorry if this is stupid question, but I do not usually use osciloscope for more than 50 volts)
Thanks,
Ivo
Hello again.
I did some measuring at video and picture tube board and here is what I found:
Oscilograms of RGB inputs at picture tube board are EXACTLY the same for all 3 inputs as well as at Z5, Z6 and Z7 test points of this board looking something like R output but more streched (amplitude is good I think). Which means that RGB outputs are also same at video board (pins 3, 4 and 5 at BV02).
Then I change IV50 (somehow I knew that this would not be of any help) and it didn't help.
Where to concentrate considering that either teletext, tuner or scart input gives no picture (I guess that tuner output is OK).
Also. checking point E1 (pin 22 of BV05) on main board gives something like noise on osciloscope and definetly not what is shown on diagram.
Ivo
Hello again,
I checked video board, resolder few points, but still the same. Also checked DL41 and DL46 and bought new CL41 and CL46. ALso I checked RL43, RL46, RG08, RL22 and exchange TDA 4950 and CG01. Still the same result.
I don't know where to concentrate anymore - E/W part or somewhere else.
Anyone? Any idea
Yours, now getting desperate,
Ivo
OK, I will check video board and resolder it as well as chassis.
I was looking at archive and found discussion started at 02.02.2004. (put '618 regenbogenbild' in 'Forum durchsuchen' field) for which I think could be related to my problem. As I don't understand language very much :(, could anybody tell me was that my kind of problem and what was solution (if any) described.
If I got straight line in middle of screen while no vertical deflection connected, could I say for sure that E/W deflection circuit is correct as line goes from beginning to the end of screen. One thing that comes to my mind as I am writing this: while vertical deflection is disconnected, would I be able to shrink horizontal line with trimmer <-> (horizontal size) and actually see shrinked line? If this is possible, is it proof for functionality of horizontal deflection circuit including TDA4950 and it's components?
I definitelly started process of elimination of circuits :D. I am out of mental and any other power and will continue work tomorrow.
As usual, thank you all for help so far.............
Ivo
Well, now it is time to make another conclusion:
If I turn G2 to right, whole screen becames brighter, but no return lines. BUT, if I disconnect BL55 (vertical deflection coil) I have one thin bright line in the middle of the screen. Does it mean that white box on picture tube board is OK? I tried with second picture tube board from donor TV and result is exactly same. If white box is defective, would this line still be visible without BL55, eg. does showing of thin line without BL55 means that white box is OK? Also picture tube itself is good as I switched whole electronics to donor (spare) TV with same chasis and results are same.
Now here is what I found: I dissasembled white plastic box at picture tube board where focus wire comes in and i found that two little springs of screen grid and focus were clogged (rusted?). I cleaned them and after that jumping thin colored lines was gone and now I have black screen (like when TV is on AV with no signal). There is no snow on it. Is it step back or forward? Any suggestions?
Ivo
Amazing thing is that ESM which was in TV is taken from another working TV (Nordmende Galaxy). Galaxy was working with it and Telefunken not. 
This was the reason why I didn't suspect it until yesterday evening. But now Galaxy and Telefunken will get new one. I will check cable from trafo to screen. According to HR Diemen 'The book' I have right line trafo for this chassis. However I will do more work this evening with it and let you know. Could I use for test purposes cable from Galaxy? This cable has no ground wire comming from screen connector and Telefunken has one. Cable could become loose inside of connector after endless turning of board. But as I was looking at the end of cable, wire goes at plastic piece together with ground wire and I am not sure if this could be dissasembled and fixed. I will certainly let you know the results. And I will not give up!
Thank you all,
Ivo
Hello again. Finally some progress is done. After removing part of LL32 TV switched on perfectly. So I put another DL21 X((now there was not anything beside it what could be wrong) and changed RP42 (who has 3 instead of 1 ohm) and TV worked!!! 
But I ran across another problem: TV is on, and on screen I have a lot of about 20 cm thin parallel lines in red, green or blue color jumping randomly on screen. Picture is same weather it is on tuner (no antenna connected), AV1 or teletext. Just a lot of those thin lines jumping randomly at whole screen. Sound from speakers is noise while on tuner, so this is good.
Thank you all so far for helping me.
And yes, i put ESM 740 G2 instead of G1 which was originally inside - what is the difference between them?
One explanation please. I cannot locate CL70. Where is it located, arround what part at schematic diagram?
By removing LL32 you mean just part which is connected between pin 4 of DST and DL21, DL22 and CL22 or whole LL32?
Hello again. I Replaced DL21, DL22, RL21 and still same thing. I would like to make following conclusion:
- If tv turns on and bulb is lit connected at U2 while deflection coil is disconnected, power supply is OK. Am I right?
- If TV fails to turn on with vertical deflection connected it is either error in vertical deflection circuit or this circuit is too much load for U5 and problem is somewhere else.
How big load is vertical deflection, and what could be disconnected from U5 so that it could be enough to supply deflection circuit (if not in error)? NF part is completely out, teletext module too (if they are using U5) and still TV is pumping. Also, NS deflection module has U5 too, and, when disconnected, still pumps.
TEA register that there is somewhere excessive current leak and voltage raises above it's values and shut off TV so I think it is good, and cost almost as value of TV).
Yours, totally hopeless, but never-give-up
Ivo
OK, I will replace it this evening and let you know the results. Thanks.
Hello again and thank you for your reply.
After disconnecting BL55 and putting 60W bulb at U2, TV switched on and remain working (it was not pumping anymore) and bulb lights. Any other suggestions?
And yes, when pumping, TV pumps 3 times in about 3 seconds.
